What is more, the cars are different and some will pass particular bridges, while the others are more likely to break them. There is no such car that will pass a bridge that is not strong enough, so think about that. The parts of the bridge just cannot stay without connections – leaving them hanging in the space is not an option. When you start building, you need to know how to strengthen your masterpiece and connect its parts among each other. Mind that when building and make thoughtful decisions! What to keep in mind when you build a bridge? The problem is that some of them just don’t work when you try to group them, so the game will block certain options once you choose a pack of particular resources. Second, the materials should be chosen wisely – not only they need to fulfill the main task (bridge must be stable and strong), but also you should learn how they work together. First, you have a limited number of elements to place there. When you do, the puzzle restricts you in moves as well as the resources. The task is to choose the best place for it, find the most appropriate spot for the road, then choose the materials you are going to use, and start the actual building process. ![]() You get to the location where a bridge needs to be built. ![]() They have filled the game with a wide range of tools, various materials, and puzzles to solve. ![]() This is the well-thought title created by the developers who really understand the engineering tricks as well as the way bridges are made. The game Poly Bridge must the most popular building simulator ever.
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The newer emulsions are more akin to digital - IMO. I see you are looking at B&W Delta - personally I'd use the older B&W emulsions as I think they have more B&W character. Of course you need a good optical scanner and this gets expensive. Shoot it with Kodak Portra 160, Ektar, Ilford Pan F Plus, Fuji RDP III and you'll wonder why anyone bothers with digital MF. Not the 67 II which can't be repaired now, but the original 6x7 Mirror Up or the 67. Take a look at the Pentax 67, a great MF camera that in this modern digital age doesn't suffer from the lack of a Polaroid back. I'm hoping my 'day job' will let me be off this weekend to go shoot, as that weather is supposed to be really nice.sunny and in mid to upper 60's.Īnyway, this is all REALLY fun new ground for me.and I really appreciate yours and everyone else's feedback on all this. I also scored a Yashicha Mat 124G that was in mint shape at a garage sale for like I think $75.I've loaded a role of Tri-X 400 in it and am wanting to shoot it. ![]() I must say too, that the square format is making it a fun new creative challenge too.its very different than the digital aspect ratio.but is fun to work with. Perhaps it is the difference in Medium Format DOF and looks, but I must same on some of my shots this early even, I'm just enamored with the images coming out, and it makes me want to shoot more and more!! I'm sure it is "new toy" bias, but I could swear, some of the images coming off the Hassy on 120 film, just almost seem "magical" to me, in terms of how things look, how they seem to "pop" off the image at you. OH well, but I'm learning and it IS getting easier and more natural. I'm working on that so much I sometimes forget to also check to make sure my shot is level.hahaha. A little buggy still it appears.ĪNYWAY.the Hassy.on man, I flat out LOVE it!! I"m still learning a lot on using a hand held light meter, trying to teach myself sunny 16 and variants.and the most difficult of all, with that view finder being backwards, when framing. ![]() I had to stop and start the app again and this time pre=scan shows the 3 new images. I did just run into a little glitch on SF.I had changed out the images on the scanner and tried pre-scan, but SF wasn't bringing in the new had 1 of the new ones but still showing 2 of the previous run. I do still have a LOT to learn about this whole process, but hey, I like to learn new things!! Goodness, THANK YOU for that reply and great information!! Crazy I know but even crazier I also shoot pinhole cameras too.It's all good for me. I started this way, own tons of Canon gear but nowadays shoot mainly Leica and MF ( Rolleis, Mamiya and Fuji ) analog. I've read a couple of your posts and it seems like your going to film for some of your work. 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I have used VueScan, Silverfast AI, and Silverfast SE plus. Try a TWAIN scan program to find the best match. If you're using a new or newish mac your probably running into driver issues. the V600 was, I think was original to 2009 and very dated. The issue that your having with Silverfast is the outdated TWAIN driver. ![]() Here's everything players need to know about the final decision present in this quest and what options they can choose to conclude a truly riveting side story. If you're locked out of the computer you can find a code for it from the other nearby computer - the code is 1234. The quests provided by Delamain are especially quite engaging, with Don't Lose Your Mind serving as the last side activity featuring this AI construct. Cyberpunk 2077 Dont Lose Your Mind - How to get to the control room In the next room, your first destination is the set of stairs directly in front of you. 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Dont lose your mind is a side job in cyberpunk 2077 cp77. ![]() ![]() From the lifepaths at the start to your build all the way to the main quest, it can become a little daunting to keep track of all your decisions. This is the basis of the Don't Lose Your Mind side quest in Cyberpunk 2077, where V will need to make a difficult decision that has three pathways and endings. Here is how to complete epistrophy and dont lose your mind for. Cyberpunk 2077 is a game loaded with decisions. 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Browd offered more glimpses into the Parkland gunman’s childhood, his frequent tantrums, quirky eating habits and inability to get along with other children his age. "There weren't any phone calls or threats that we know of that were made.Jurors heard the story from Finai Browd, a family friend who knew Lynda and Roger Cruz from their time in New York and, with her husband, followed them to South Florida. "There were problems with him last year threatening students, and I guess he was asked to leave campus."Ĭounty school superintendent Robert Runcie, for his part, told a news conference on Wednesday afternoon that new information may come to light, but at the moment, officials believe they had "received no warnings, no indication" that a student had been planning an attack. "We were told last year that he wasn't allowed on campus with a backpack on him," Gard said. Jim Gard, a math teacher who says he had Cruz in his class, told The Miami Herald that the young man had attracted the school's notice, as well. The account her daughter found "is just full of pictures of guns - and she goes, 'That's the kid! That's the kid that bumped into me and was so rude to me when I was a freshman.' You know, it's pretty scary when you recognize somebody who did this." Rozenblat said that her daughter made the connection after the shooting, when she visited the purported Instagram account of the shooter. She came home and told me that story, and it stuck in my mind." "Because back when she was a freshman, I remember her coming home and telling me a story that a kid bumped into her and was really rude and was like, 'Get out of the way, freshman!' And he bumped her. "She knew who the kid was," Rozenblat said. 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His mother, Lynda Cruz, died of pneumonia less than four months ago at age 68, and his father, Roger Cruz, died when Nikolas and his biological brother, Zachary - also adopted by the Cruz family - were much younger, according to The Sun Sentinel.īarbara Kumbatovich, a sister-in-law of Lynda's who lives on Long Island, N.Y., tells the newspaper that the brothers moved in with a family friend after their mother's death on Nov. "We have already begun to dissect his websites and social media that he was on," Sheriff Scott Israel said at a news conference Wednesday evening, "and some of the things that have come are very, very disturbing."Ĭruz's parents are both deceased. This section provides a summary of your course experience and outlines the activities that you will complete as you navigate through the course. 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![]() Ok done! I'm so happy did it at a lower temp 85f and didn't pre soaked, I didn't washed between developer and blix something tells me this might be a very good idea to save blix in the future. From there you can add more time to push your film. For this kit the instructions say you should develop at 102F at 3.5 mins. ![]() I find it helps when the film is at temp before adding the developer. I use the same Tetenal Jobo kit and i always presoak my film. Thank you very much, will mix and develop tonight Nathan Parry edited this topic 106 months ago. As you aren't replenishing keep a track of the number of rolls through the chemicals and extend development time as per tetenal's instruction pamphlet. I use plastic chemical bottles and use butane to displace any air.Īlso, don't fret the shelf life, C41 will last a lot longer than you think. ![]() Just squeeze them to bring the fluid to the lip. Again, you'll hardly notice any difference if at all.ĥ: A very slight overdevelopment, barely noticeable.Ħ: Yes they'll be fine. The temperature again differs, my Kodak chems say 38C others say 37.5C. I have developed for 3.30 before with no discernable difference. The time is so short that the temperature isn't going to change muchĤ: Each kit is slightly different, my Kodak C41b say 3.15 others say 3.30. No special equipment necessary, I pop the tank back in the sink between inversions which are at 30 second intervals. Just add water at room temp.Ģ: Not necessary but I presoak just to warm up the tank, reel and film.ģ: Yes in theory, but it's a lot easier and quicker just to do it at the 37.5C-38C temperature. I use Kodak's C41b chemicals as they're replenishable and come as concentrates, easier to mix. :-)Įveryone is different, so I'll answer according to me.ġ: Doesn't need to be hot but the powders will dissolve quicker. Quit sweating the details and just do it. You will soon realize that the process is rather forgiving, and easy and fun. I have processed about 12 rolls with my chems and still getting good results. I process Ektar 100, 120 roll film in Unicolor at 95' F at 6 minutes with a 10 minute Blix at about 95' F With all that said, don't get to worried about the whole process, it's as easy to do as the B/W and just as much FUN! Oxygen will affect the chems, so you should try to keep as much air out of the bottles as possible. The light will not affect the chems, just the bottles. The chems will not affect the plastic, but UV light WILL, so store the bottles in a cool dark location. I use plastic pop bottles to store my chems and they work fine. That slight variation will not affect image quality.Ħ. Unless you are using a machine to develop, you will always have some slight variation in time and temp. I often goof by 15-30 seconds on development time. Probably not enough to significantly affect the image quality. My Unicolor kit calls for 3.5 min at 105' F That would be very close to standard for all the kits.ĥ. There are adjustments that can be made varying temp, but you would need to experiment yourself.Ĥ. No, not really, color chems are sensitive to temp and time. I do not presoak, my films come out fine.ģ. ![]() This is to ensure that the chemical powder is completely dissolved in solution.Ģ. Mix the chem powders at "hot" temp, get close to 110' F. I use the Unicolor kit myself, but they are all essentially the same.ġ. Originally posted at 9:17AM, 10 June 2014 PSTĪndres Cuervo G edited this topic 106 months ago. "Can I mix the developer and blix at room temp? warm? sink temp ? or do I need to mix the developer and blix in a certain and specific temp? if so what is it.?Ģ- Is the presoak is really necessary? "Placebo"ģ- Can you develop at room temp adjusting time? if so how do you know whats the right time for 18-20c?Ĥ- What is the standard Temp for developing and what is the time?ĥ- What happens if you overdelop 5-10 seconds?Ħ- Can I store the chemicals in plastic bottles, like I did with B&W chemicals? or the chemistry will eat away the plastic? I find it strange since it says that stabilizer needs to be mixed at blix temp and on the little bag it says mix at room temp. Some say mixing done at 110f but on jobo page it says I have some questions and I would really appreciate if someone clear them up for me:ġ- I got a 1lt Tetenal Press kit C-41 from BH it came labeled as Jobo whats up with that? NO INSTRUCTIONS** I understand you pour 800ml of water at a certain temp and mix the developer, then add water until 1lt and same with blix, the stabilizer is at room temp. Hello guys, I finally decided that I wanted to add some nice color in my photography, my way is film or nothing, and I never liked the idea of sending to a lab as the results are not depending you and you are loosing a big part of the Art, part of the reason I was doing mostly B&W. |
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